Tunic #122 from Burda WOF Feb 2008
My Thoughts : I found this tunic half finished in my UFO pile a month ago. I had made it 3 times with sleeves and then attempted a sleeveless version and I guess I didn’t like it because it ended up in the pile for about 2 years! When I pulled it out and finished it, I decided it was a nice easy piece to wear and I should have a couple more in my closet so I made 2 more!
Pattern Sizing: I cut a 38 in this pattern. The only alteration I made was to bring in the shoulders a bit as I’m pretty narrow and the shoulders kept sliding off. Otherwise, it’s un-altered.
Fabric Used: Chiffon for one and faux silk for the other
Modifications : The only alteration (besides removing the sleeves) I made was to bring in the shoulders a bit as I’m pretty narrow and the shoulders kept sliding off. Otherwise, it’s un-altered
Tutorial (as promised) : Last week on the Patternreview forum, I promised to post a tutorial on Burda’s process for attaching facings (or a lining) to a sleeveless bodice. You all know the technique. It’s usually accompanied by a photo of a wooden spoon sitting underneath the shoulder seam. Warning – The following is photo heavy and includes basic instructions on how to make this tunic as well as a focus on the burda method for attaching facings in a sleeveless garment.
First of all, I started with 2 very sheer fabrics that I put together and treated as one for the entire process.
I started by attaching the back yoke pieces to the back pieces. Then I insert my invisible zip and finish by closing up my back seam.
Make the pleats in the front piece and attach to front yoke. Next, apply interfacing to yoke facings.
Pin front facings to front and back facings to back. Sew along arm hole and neck edges STOPPING 1 ¼ to 1 ½ inch below each shoulder seam.
Clip all curves and points on front and back pieces. ON FRONTS ONLY, turn the facings to the inside. Now you have your front piece facing right side out and your back piece still facing right side in.
Clip all curves and points on front and back pieces. ON FRONTS ONLY, turn the facings to the inside. Now you have your front piece facing right side out and your back piece still facing right side in.
Okay here’s the tricky part…pay attention! Lay the front on the back right sides together. Lift the back facing and slide the front piece up and into the back shoulder. See photos below to understand what I mean. You are going to sandwich the front shoulder into the back shoulder piece.
Once your front piece is inside the back shoulder piece, you can see that your fabric right sides are together and your facings are together. Pin and sew the 4 shoulder seams (2 on the right and 2 on the left).
Once the seams are sewn, reach into the middle of the shoulder and pull towards you so that your seams are further down and not at the edge of the shoulder. (it feels kinda like turning a fabric loop from wrongside to right side except that you only ‘turn’ the loop for about an inch or two until you get the seams in a position that you can lay them flat and press them – see photos to get a better idea)
Slide the handle of a wooden spoon (in my case I was able to fit my wood pressing ‘thing a ma jiggy’) under the seam and press the seams open
Now it’s time to close up the gaps in the arm and neck seams that you left open originally.
Once the seams are sewn, pull the front away from the back piece.
Now you have a nice clean finish around your neck & shoulder seams and you didn’t have to do any hand sewing!
Now pin your front and back together (right sides facing in) and sew up your side seams
As always, I sign my work with my tag at this point.
Thanks for reading!
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