Burda WOF Feb 2008 - Tunic #122

Magazine Description: The tunic has returned but left its Seventies image behind, changing from sloppy to elegant by use of satin fabric in a very flattering A-line.

My Thoughts : I found this tunic half finished in my UFO pile a month ago. I had made it 3 times with sleeves and then attempted a sleeveless version and I guess I didn't like it because it ended up in the pile for about 2 years! When I pulled it out and finished it, I decided it was a nice easy piece to wear and I should have a couple more in my closet so I made 2 more!

Pattern Sizing: I cut a 38 in this pattern. The only alteration I made was to bring in the shoulders a bit as I'm pretty narrow and the shoulders kept sliding off. Otherwise, it's un-altered.

Fabric Used: Chiffon for one and faux silk for the other

Modifications : The only alteration (besides removing the sleeves) I made was to bring in the shoulders a bit as I"m pretty narrow and the shoulders kept sliding off. Otherwise, it"s un-altered

Tutorial (as promised) : Last week on the Patternreview forum, I promised to post a tutorial on Burda"s process for attaching facings (or a lining) to a sleeveless bodice. You all know the technique. It"s usually accompanied by a photo of a wooden spoon sitting underneath the shoulder seam. Warning � The following is photo heavy and includes basic instructions on how to make this tunic as well as a focus on the burda method for attaching facings in a sleeveless garment.

First of all, I started with 2 very sheer fabrics that I put together and treated as one for the entire process.

I started by attaching the back yoke pieces to the back pieces. Then I insert my invisible zip and finish by closing up my back seam.

Make the pleats in the front piece and attach to front yoke. Next, apply interfacing to yoke facings.

Pin front facings to front and back facings to back. Sew along arm hole and neck edges STOPPING 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inch below each shoulder seam.

Clip all curves and points on front and back pieces. ON FRONTS ONLY, turn the facings to the inside. Now you have your front piece facing right side out and your back piece still facing right side in.

Okay here"s the tricky part...pay attention! Lay the front on the back right sides together. Lift the back facing and slide the front piece up and into the back shoulder. See photos below to understand what I mean. You are going to sandwich the front shoulder into the back shoulder piece.

Once your front piece is inside the back shoulder piece, you can see that your fabric right sides are together and your facings are together. Pin and sew the 4 shoulder seams (2 on the right and 2 on the left).

Once the seams are sewn, reach into the middle of the shoulder and pull towards you so that your seams are further down and not at the edge of the shoulder. (it feels kinda like turning a fabric loop from wrongside to right side except that you only "turn" the loop for about an inch or two until you get the seams in a position that you can lay them flat and press them - see photos to get a better idea)

Slide the handle of a wooden spoon (in my case I was able to fit my wood pressing "thing a ma jiggy") under the seam and press the seams open

Now it"s time to close up the gaps in the arm and neck seams that you left open originally.

Once the seams are sewn, pull the front away from the back piece.

Now you have a nice clean finish around your neck & shoulder seams and you didn"t have to do any hand sewing!

Now pin your front and back together (right sides facing in) and sew up your side seams

As always, I sign my work with my tag at this point.

Thanks for reading!

17 Comments Posted

Brilliant! Wonderful, clear, easy to understand tute. You took the wooden spoon right out of my hands!

Bunny
July 24, 2009

Thank you! Wow! I never could decipher the part about sliding the front into the back shoulders, etc... Very helpful!

Elaine Good
July 25, 2009

VERY nice! I will certainly look at this more than once. Excellent job. I too have never bben able to "see" how this was done! Thanks for all your work. :)

Mufffet
July 25, 2009

One thing that kind of bugs me (NOT a criticism of you!, it's done in RTW all the time) is how the side seam is done. You see how you backed off sewing at the shoulder 1.5"? Well, I do that at the bottom of the armhole too. I sew the side seam first (after the shoulders are joined obviously) and then go back and finish off the bottom of the armhole, joining facing to shell. I've been meaning to do a tutorial on this showing the difference in how the seam looks turned both ways as a point of comparison. I've been having to do this a lot lately with bag making so you'd think I would have taken some photos of it. One of the reasons I think I haven't done it is because of the bellows of outrage I think I may get from my RTW visitors :).

Kathleen
July 27, 2009

What a great tutorial! I made a top just like this and did the hand sewing thing-this is a huge improvement!

Erin
July 28, 2009

THAT IS FREAKIN' AMAZING!!! I can't thank you enough for taking the time to make this tutorial! For taking the pictures, for putting these steps so clearly on the web! Thank you SOO much! For years I've wondered how ready-to-wear does this so cleanly -- do they have tiny magic elves with itty bitty sewing machines climb up into those tight tunnels to finish them off so perfectly? I've sewn the raw edges together when in a hurry, or hand-stitched them when not, but I've never known how to do it right -- and now I do, thanks to you, Deb. I can't wait to try it! I was so ecstatic seeing your photos that I insisted my husband come over and look at your pictures so that he, too, could recognize the genius of this method (not that he got that excited, but he humored me). Thank you, thank you, thank you! Gigi

Gisele Zeitler
August 2, 2009

Your great photographs as well as the explanations are Wonderful. Thank you for sharing with us here on your site and @ Pattern Review.

Aunt Gail
August 7, 2009

Thank you so much for your great photos and information about sewing a sleeveless top. It was very helpful you put a lot of time in making this sooo helpful

Pep
January 5, 2010

Thanks a zillion for this tutorial. I was given a link to your site by The Selfish Seamstress because I was having problems with facings. Your tutorial looks really easy to follow.

Dibs
January 24, 2010

Thank you so much for this tutorial! I just had a "sewing epiphany". I also linked to it on my blog which I just started : carmencitab.com

CarmencitaB
April 21, 2010

Wow, excellent.

Ruth
October 3, 2010

wow! that was amazing!!! thanks!!

alice
October 16, 2010

Brilliant! I'm hoping I can apply this method to the lining of a ball gown (bodice) that I'm making with my daughter, for her. I try to keep one step ahead so that I can ooze confidence as we approach each new stage of the process. I don't want her to worry that I'm stuck and not going to make it in time for the ball! Thanks ever so much for your generosity in sharing this. Grateful thanks from a mum in Oslo, Norway.

Dorothy
November 30, 2010

I did it! It worked out beautifully. Rather tricky, considering that the straps were only 3cm wide... I'd emphasize how important it is to be accurate with seam allowances. The straps (front and back, and of course the facings or linings) need to be exactly the same width at the point where they are to be sewn together.

Dorothy
December 5, 2010

This technique is Super. I am sure I will use this knowledge in the future

Marijayne
December 20, 2010

Hi Deb, I have used your method twice now and it is so smooth and easy - thanks for your clear instructions

Barbara
March 11, 2011

Best. Tutorial. Ever. Thank you!

Tricia
April 6, 2011